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Strategies to Improve Design and Testing for Cloth Strategies to Improve Design and Testing for Clothing Longevity is the final report of a Defra- and WRAP-funded research project (2014–2016) led by Nottingham Trent University. The report presents one of the most extensive investigations ever conducted into why clothing fails prematurely—and how design, testing, supply chain practices, and consumer behavior can be transformed to enable garments to last significantly longer.
The document combines a comprehensive literature review, 31 industry interviews, consumer focus groups, clothing diary ethnographies, expert roundtables, and four real-world pilot projects with UK clothing brands. Through this multi-method approach, it identifies the technical, commercial, behavioral, and systemic barriers to clothing longevity—and provides actionable strategies for retailers, designers, manufacturers, and policymakers.
Core Findings
1. Clothing Can Be Made to Last Longer—But Industry Practices Prevent It
The research confirms that clothing durability is technically achievable, yet retail cost pressures, fast-fashion timelines, and reductions in product quality undermine longevity. Common issues include poor fabric choice, inadequate testing, inconsistent care labelling, and loss of technical expertise across supply chains.
2. Key Barriers to Longevity
Over-prioritization of price and aesthetics over durability
Limited or outdated testing, especially for pilling and colourfastness
Fragmented and opaque global supply chains
Loss of textile engineering skills within retail NPD teams
Consumer habits (frequent washing, poor care) reinforcing premature wear
Lack of proven business models to justify longevity investments
3. Opportunities for Improvement
Adoption of advanced finishes and textile processes to reduce pilling and fading
Better design-for-longevity practices, including adaptable fit, durable components, and emotional durability strategies
Clearer, evidence-based care instructions matched to real consumer laundering behavior
Supply chain collaboration and early technician involvement in NPD
Emerging business models (leasing, take-back, repair services), though scalability is uncertain
Research Components
Industry Input
Interviews with designers, technologists, suppliers, and retailers highlight conflicting commercial priorities and the systemic challenge of embedding durability within fast-fashion models.
Consumer Insights
Focus groups and diaries show consumers value quality and dislike waste, but are constrained by:
misunderstanding of clothing care
pressure to wash frequently
frustration with pilling and fading
limited appeal of second-hand markets
Consumers expressed interest in clearer durability labels and better garment care guidance.
Expert Roundtables
Panels of textile engineers, sustainability experts, and brand specialists explored:
reducing pilling through material selection and improved testing
enhancing emotional durability
designing clothing that aligns with actual user behavior
the role of standards and better data collection
Pilot Brand Collaborations
Four pilots tested real-world solutions:
Strengthened durability testing for a childrenswear brand’s lifetime guarantee
Consumer research to support behavioural change strategies
Colourfastness testing aligned with real laundering practices
Diagnosing severe pilling in luxury cashmere knitwear
These revealed both technical potential and the operational constraints retailers face.
Policy & Industry Recommendations
The report calls for systemic intervention via:
Short-term initiatives promoting durability awareness.
Training and knowledge-sharing infrastructures to rebuild technical skills.
Investment in research on new technologies, finishes, testing methods, and user-centered design.
Clearer labelling, repair ecosystems, and circular-economy legislation to support longer clothing lifetimes.
A toolkit is included to help designers and brands apply the findings.
Overall Summary
This report provides a deeply comprehensive, evidence-based roadmap for extending clothing lifetimes. It reveals that achieving longevity depends on integrated design, accurate testing, skilled supply chains, informed consumers, and supportive business and policy frameworks. It is ultimately a blueprint for reducing clothing waste and supporting a circular apparel economy.
If you'd like, I can also create:
✨ an executive summary
✨ a one-paragraph micro-summary
✨ a visual diagram of the findings
✨ a comparison with other longevity documents you've uploaded
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Sources
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